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Race Across the World Holiday

Introduction

 
Last year, my husband Paul and I took our two boys Alfie and Bertie to Devon for a week long holiday. The boys were 21 and 17 and honestly, it was a real struggle to get them to properly participate in the holiday. They were more keen to hang out in their rooms on their devices than come out with us. On that holiday, Paul and I made a decision – future family holidays would be turned into competitions. Participation would be compulsory, for one week only.
 
So this year, we had a totally different kind of holiday. Modelled on the TV show Race Across the World – we embarked upon a mystery adventure. We had no idea where we are going. The trip was organised by my sister Susie and our friend Charlotte. Each day we split into two teams and at breakfast each team opened an envelope and discovered that day’s destination and the challenge they must accomplish on the way. Every day, each team could earn points for completing challenges, spending the least money and arriving by a certain time. As the teams changed daily – each family member being paired with every other twice – individual points were tracked across the week… and yes… someone was going to win the holiday. 
 
This blog is an account of the holiday. There are no photos of Bertie at his request. 

Day 1

We were told we needed to be at St Pancras Station by 6.30am, where we opened the Day 1 envelopes and our own personal secret missions. Yes, indeed, each of us has a secret mission, which I can say no more about at this stage.
 
Day 1 teams:
Team Theatrics: Me and Paul
Team Celebrate Alfie and Bertie
 
Day 1 destination: Sedan, France.
 

Team Theatrics:

  • Bonus challenge at St Pancras, which we nearly missed due to the fact that we assumed it was talking about the destination station! We had to find the statue of the poet who saved the station, then recite the lines around the statue in front of a café that bears one of our names. We found the statue of Sir John Betjeman upstairs and recited the lines in front of the Paul café. Phew.
  • Boarded the 9.01 train to Lille.
  • Raining in Lille. What happened to the European heatwave? (A recurrent thought all week). Walked around in the rain for a bit.
  • Boarded the 12.35 train to Charlville-Mezieres armed with a baguette and a bit of cheese.
  • Train stopped at Avesnes-sur-Hope and never started again. Avesnes-sur-Hope is in the middle of nowhere. We looked at an Uber – but it would have been £250. There were no other transport options. At some point we learned from the conductor that there was a tree across the line. Sunday in France – not looking good for the tree to be moved. At 4.30pm we were given SNFC emergency water. At 5pm we were put in a taxi along with two other passengers and driven to Charleville.
  • In Charleville-Mezieres, which is the apparently the international capital of puppetry we walked to Place Winston Churchill to see the puppetry clock. Our main day challenge was to recreate the puppet display in the clock using the puppets provided in our challenge envelope. Sadly the clock was broken. The doors opened, but the knights and the horse didn’t move. It was befitting for the sort of day we had had.
  • Boarded a train to Sedan. Arrived at 8pm. Only one taxi there but he was booked. Didn’t fancy walking the 30 minutes to the hotel – tired and a little jaded. Taxi driver took pity on us and drove us to the hotel free of charge.
  • Met up with the boys, who were in high spirits having arrived many hours earlier. Went and ate fabulous African food.
Team Celebrate
(not so much detail here as I wasn’t there)
  • Boarded the 8.01am train to Paris.
  • Spent an hour wandering around Paris.
  • Boarded the train to Epernay. Arrived without incident. It was sunny.
  • Completed their challenge which was to drink Moet & Chandon on the Avenue de Champagne!
  • Completed the bonus challenge, which was to sing Killer Queen on the Avenue de Champagne.
  • Discovered a handy carpool ride on BlaBlaCar. Got an Uber to Reims in order to meet their carpool driver Valerie.
  • Valerie drove them all the way to the hotel for 18 euros.
  • Arrived at the hotel at 5pm.
  • Today was also IB results day and while Bertie was on the move, he got his results. Fantastically – he got into his first choice university. So a great day for him.

Points:

If you arrive at a place before 6pm you get 5 points each. If you arrive after 8pm, you get 0. There is a sliding scale every half an hour between 6pm and 8pm. So not a great start for me and Paul. However there are 3 points for the team that spends the least money on travel. Paul and I won that. Both teams got 3 points for completing the challenge and 2 points for completing the bonus challenge.
Scores at the end of Day 1:
Ellie – 8
Paul – 8
Alfie – 10
Bertie – 10

Day 2

 
Day 2 teams:
– Team Gastronomy: Me and Alfie
– Team Roman: Bertie and Paul
 
 Day 2 destination: Kronberg, Germany.
  
Team Gastronomy:
  • The day started with a brisk 25 minute walk to the train station, to discover there were no trains at all – instead an exciting rail replacement bus awaited us. Not a great start. It seems that it’s impossible to travel to Charlesville-Mezieres by train. Both days alternative transport has been provided by the rail network.
  • Comfy long distance train to Strasbourg was easy – accompanied by Team Roman (see below). The teams parted ways at the station – opting for different escalators and making a run for it.
  • Alfie and I got a tram to the city centre and walked to the main cathedral square for our challenge. Our challenge was to have a slap up lunch of Tarte Flambee. Now this is the kind of challenge I can really get behind. It was marvellous. Alfie was most enthusiastic.
  • To complete our challenge, we were required to measure the size of our bellies using the 16th century belly measuring pillar – the Buchmesser. Most excellent.
  • Having missed the best train out of Strasbourg in order to fulfil the challenge, we decided to mosey back to the station at a more leisurely pace – picking up drinks and a large custard slice for Alfie. Sadly, this meant we ended up running for the next train.
  • It wasn’t the last time we ran. The next few hours were a catalog of delayed trains, running for trains, changing trains at the last second and getting more and more behind. When we crossed into Germany the police boarded the train and checked everyone’s ID cards and Passports, meaning we missed our connection. At one point we ran from one train to try to catch another, which we missed only to have to run back to the one we were on – fortunately catching it but not getting any seats.
  • On our 6th train of the day Alfie and I decided that we couldn’t face another two trains and a 40 minute stop at Frankfurt, so we alighted at Frankfurt airport and plumped for an Uber to take us to the hotel.
Team Roman:
It seems as if Bertie had Paul on a very short lead all day. Bertie is completely ON IT when it comes to the race. “Spend no money and move as fast as humanly possible” is his motto.
  • Decided they would have to adjust their challenge as doing it would mean upwards of 9 hours on trains. They were supposed to visit Trier the oldest city in Germany, but instead decided to join us on our route to Strasbourg.
  • Did a 1-hour mad dash around Strasbourg reciting lines from Julius Caezar in front of various ancient ruins – for their task and bonus.
  • They marvelled at the Gothic Cathedral. Paul wanted to go in but Bertie was on a timescale.
  • Paul was also not allowed to eat a frankfurter or have a beer because of said timescale. He was allowed to get lunch – tacos. But Bertie decided he should eat it on the street while rushing for a train.
  • On arrival at Kronberg, Bertie kept up the yomping uphill with Bertie from the station to the hotel.
Points:
 
Both teams arrived between 6.30pm and 7pm. So 3 points for each team for time. Team Roman won 3 points for the team that spends the least money on travel.
Both teams got 3 points for completing the challenge but Team Roman also won 1 points from completing the bonus challenge. Team Gastronomy didn’t have a bonus challenge, but did have a lovely lunch, which was a bonus.
 
The hotel was absolutely magnificent. The hotel bar was wonderful and Alfie got busy by drinking his way through the cocktail menu. A lovely and very comfortable night.
 
 
Scores at the end of Day 2:
Ellie – 14
Alfie – 16
Paul – 18
Bertie – 20
 
I think we can all see where this is going…today I earned the nickname “El Cursio”.

Day 3

Day 3 teams:
– Team Monk: Me and Bertie
– Team Dishwasher: Alfie and Paul
 
Day 3 destination: Konstanz, Germany
 
Team Monk:
  • Bertie started with a pep talk – explaining to me that we would not be spending any unnecessary money at all and that we would be walking everywhere. This started immediately with a very brisk walk to the station.
  • Bertie organised all the travel today. We had three easy trains with stress-free connections – comfy seats each time. A great improvement on previous days. We played some cards and I particularly enjoyed the train ride through the Black Forest.
  • Paul and I gave each of the boys an “I Spy on a Train Journey” book as a side-quest. Bertie was unimpressed, but was cajoled into crossing some items off.
  • We arrived in Allenspach around 2pm and had a lovely pizza lunch. As the sky turned an ominous shade we walked along the lake to catch a ferry across to Reichenau Island. (There were other ways to arrive on the island, but to complete the bonus challenge, we needed to arrive by boat.) The ancient ferryman told us we had to pay in cash – which prompted me having to run through the town to find an ATM, by which time, of course the heavens had properly opened.
  • Now soaked, I arrived back at the ferry to be told that the storm light had come on and we had to wait for the storm to pass before we could cross (it was only Bertie and I on this ferry). He waited about 5 minutes, then seemed to get bored and took us across anyway.
  • When we docked, Bertie revealed that the ‘short walk’ was actually about 2.5 km. He’d ‘helpfully’ adjusted my rucksack straps, which made it far less comfortable and proceeded to lead me at a fair lick across the island in the pouring rain.
  • Eventually we arrived at our destination St Georg’s church, where we were tasked with marvelling at the beautiful murals. Indeed, they were impressive. We were lucky to get in, because the church is only open twice a day, for a tour, in German. We arrived 15 minutes before the 4pm tour and I sweet-talked the tour guide into letting us wander in for 10 minutes alone (and free of charge). Bertie was not on board for a 45-minute church tour in German.
  • Finally, a short bus and a quick train later we arrived at the hotel. Very damp, but triumphant.
Team Dishwasher:
  • Walked to the station and then deliberately misrepresented getting an Uber to the rival team – as a stealth strategy.
  • They made a last-minute decision to get off the train before Frankfurt Hbf and jumped on Lime Scooters and scooted off to do a bonus quest – a visit to a clocktower.
  • They then razzed around the city on the scooters to try to find the Fleming Hotel with a paternoster lift. Unfortunately, they found the wrong Fleming Hotel, then made a strategic decision to abandon that part of the plan in order to catch the next train.
  • Incredibly, due to the scooter action, they still made the train connection that they had originally intended to get… and they were off to Stuttgart.
  • In Stuttgart, an overground tram/train thingy (Paul is dictating this) took them to the funicular railway. Ascending via the funicular, they arrived at a massive cemetery in which many notable people were buried… including Robert Bosch – dishwasher man. They did some slightly irreverent filming at his grave, and completed their main challenge.
  • Back on the funicular, back to Stuttgart on the tram/train thingy, where they thought they would have 20 minutes to scope some delicious lunch for the next train. But the tram/train was delayed and the time was cut very short. So it was a grab and go pretzel for lunch. Paul wants it to be known, however, that the pretzel was an absolute winner. Cheese and chicken. The hero.
  • Then hotfooted it to the hotel in Konstanz.
Points:
 
Both teams arrived before 6pm. Team Dishwasher arrived first and had gone off for a wander in Konstanz by the time we arrived. (They clearly hadn’t done as much walking during the day. I collapsed into a hot bath and joined them later). Team Monk won 3 points for the team that spends the least money on travel. Both teams got 3 points for completing the challenge but Team Monk got 2 bonus points, while Team Dishwasher only got 1.
 
Scores at the end of Day 3:
Alfie – 25
Ellie – 27
Paul – 27
Bertie – 33
 
Is the curse over? I’m starting to climb up the ratings. Alfie has fallen below because he’s been on the team that spent the most money every day (possibly due to his requests to travel on different modes of transport – we suspect a secret challenge motive here). In any case, he is all about making this trip as comfortable as possible. Also on the secret challenge front, Bertie has been conspicuously taking photos of churches. It’s notable as he’s not taking photos of anything else, and he’s not been a particular fan of churches until now. However, it could well be an elaborate bluff.

Day 4

Day 4 teams:
– Team Disaster (not a good omen): Me and Paul
– Team Urmel: Alfie and Bertie
 
Day 4 destination: Regensberg, Germany
 
Team Disaster:
  • While sitting in the delightful dining room of the hotel – overlooking Lake Constance and enjoying an omelette, we opened the Day 4 envelope. After some leisurely googling about our destination and challenge, we realised that the perfect catamaran ferry was leaving in 15 minutes – it was a 10-minute walk away and we needed tickets. So the 2nd cup of tea was left to cool as we legged it. After a tense wait behind a couple of very slow people at the ticket counter, I had the tickets in hand and was running (yes, for the 3rd day in a row) for the catamaran, having already blown the budget for the day.
  • After a delightful 50 minutes jetting across the lake we arrived in Friedrichschafen, about 10 paces from the scene of today’s challenge – the Zeppelin Museum. Our challenge is to ‘Explore the Hindenburg’. The Zeppelin museum has recreated sections of the Hindenburg and explains the disaster. Fortunately, we were able to take our time here as we had plenty of time before our train.
  • On taking a leisurely stroll through Friedrichschafen we found: a Ravensburger shop – a whole shop devoted to Ravensburger games and puzzles; a tea shop, where Paul bought a caddy of orange rooibos, which he now has to carry around for the rest of the week; and a delightful café where we stopped for drinks and a pretzel.
  • Today’s trains were uneventful and the connections were kind. We travelled from Friedrichschafen to Ulm, Ulm to Munich and then Munich to Regensberg. Paul was happy because we got time to choose a proper train lunch at Ulm. We arrived into Regensberg at 4pm only to find the boys further up the platform alighting from the same train.
  • There had been many many stairs at stations today and Paul and I are feeling a bit achy. So instead of walking to the hotel, we opted for Lime scooters, which was much more fun (and you have to do these things when you’re not on a team with Bertie, who refuses to spend any money).
Team Urmel:
(Dictated at speed by the boys – hence the lack of detail).
  • Started off at a run to catch the first train from Konstanz. After a couple of Ulm. Travelled to Ulm. Saw a nice lake on the way. Pastry in Ulm. Spent 2 euros on the McDonald’s bathroom. Bertie had a Kinder Bueno. No lunch.
  • Ulm to Augsburg – went into the puppet museum. The challenge was “Go and ask for Urmel from Ice Age.” It was a little puppet that is supposed to represent the interspecies between dinosaurs and mammals.
  • Augsburg to Regensburg. Arrived on same train.
Points
 
Both teams arrived before 6pm. Team Disaster arrived first, but had to go and find a parking space for the lime scooters and by the time we got back to the hotel, Team Urmel were already there, checking in – flexing and lording it – annoying. Team Urmel won 3 points for the team that spends the least money on travel. Both teams got 3 points for completing their challenge. No bonus points today.
 
Scores at the end of Day 4:
Ellie – 35
Paul – 35
Alfie – 36
Bertie – 44

Day 5

Day 5 teams:
– Team Translation: Me and Alfie
– Team Statues: Paul and Bertie
 
Day 5 destination: Dresden, Germany
 
Team Translation:
  • Started by making a run for it out of breakfast to get a head start on the other team, but quickly realised, while googling that we had missed the early train – largely because Alfie was 15 minutes late to breakfast, though he denies this was the reason. We don’t get the challenge envelopes until after breakfast, so pre-planning is not allowed… but if he had arrived at the agreed time we would have been off earlier. Not bitter. My old hip issue is also playing up (probably due to running upstairs and around towns every day carrying a rucksack) – so this slowed us a bit.
  • Took the train from Regensburg to Nuremberg – with Team Statues. We had 45 minutes at Nuremberg. Slightly weird being there not for Spielwarenmesse. Nuremberg Hbf has lots of food options, so Alfie and I grabbed some lunch for our second train. Alfie chose two slices of mushroom pizza and I got a salad and a large slice of cherry crumble cake!
  • Travelled from Nuremberg to Hof. Met up with Team Statues on the train and sat together again. At Hof, we dropped our bags in the lockers and waved goodbye to the others. Then we proceeded into the town to complete our challenge.
  • The challenge gave us a dodgy translation of from the city guide and we were to discover what the correct translation was. This was actually the hardest and the easiest challenge to complete. It was easy, because it was clear from the slip of paper what the translation should have been (well clear to Alfie – totally passed me by). Part of the clip said: “All passages of the Saalepark to the city centre are paved with colourful pants, old gardens in the Hope city have been restored.” So ‘pants’ should have been ‘plants’ (not sure why I didn’t see that!). But finding the Saalepark wasn’t that easy. According to Google, there was only one place called Saalepark and that was the student accommodation – which was admittedly next to a park, though this park was called Lorenzpark. Another part of the translation mentioned St Lorenz church, so we thought it might be this, but I was quite confused. Fortunately, I eventually found a PDF of the city plan online and found that ‘Saalepark’ had been translated from ‘Saaleauen’. Mystery solved we were able to navigate to the correct place – to see the plants (pants).
  • We ambled back through the town where we found a get-the-three-balls-in-the-holes puzzle… which I insisted on completing before we moved on, much to Alfie’s irritation.
  • Then back on the train, this time from Hof to Dresden. About an hour before we reached Dresden we saw Team Statues jumping on the train at a different stop. So we arrived at the (totally lovely) hotel together.
Team Statues:
  • Upon opening the challenge envelope, Paul was dismayed to learn that our destination was Dresden – not because he doesn’t want to go to the city – but because his very close friend Bill lives there… but he is currently in the USA. 
  • Paul has spent some time every day bemoaning the fact that he hadn’t found any sausages in Germany yet. So, he decided to make this a sausage day, come what may.
  • In Nuremberg Paul went off in search of sausages – success – got sausaged up at a sausage stall and it renewed Paul’s faith in Germany.
  • Then the train from Nuremberg to Hof. 15 minutes at Hof, then boarded the train for Chemnitz, which was previously called Karl Marx Stadt before the reunification. Chemnitz station reminded Paul instantly of footage of people being put into train carriages in WW2, and they found a plaque about this. In fact, on consultation with Bill, Team Statues discovered that at each train station in Germany there are the names of each person from that town that were deported.
  • Team Statues’ task was to find the Karl Marx Statue, which was astonishing and magnificent – very impressive.
  • Before getting back on the train, they got sausaged up again. Then took the train from Chemnitz to Dresden – the same train as Team Translation.
  • In the evening, both members of Team Statues ate Currywurst, making this a 3 sausage day.
Points:
 
Both teams arrived together at around 6.40pm – and therefore each won 3 points. Teams were tied for the least money spent. Both teams got 3 points for completing their challenge.
 
Scores at the end of Day 5:
Ellie – 44
Paul – 44
Alfie – 45
Bertie – 53
 
Energy levels are plummeting. We’re going to have to dig deep for day 6.

Day 6

Day 6 teams:
– Team Palaces: Me and Bertie
– Team Vault: Paul and Alfie
 
Day 6 destination: Berlin, Germany
 
Team Palaces:
  • Bertie didn’t arrive at breakfast at the agreed time and wasn’t responding to messages, so Team Palaces didn’t get off to a great start as one member of the team had to be rudely awakened by a phone call from front desk. A monosyllabic breakfast later and we were sort of ready to roll.
  • We walked to the station from the hotel, with a quick stops at Aldi for train provisions. Then we boarded the fast train to Berlin. Having spent the entire week avoiding seat reservations, in order to spend no money on travel, we have got into the habit of diving into the first empty seats we come across. Today, the carriage we got on was the dining car. We didn’t realise before today that if you sit in the dining car, you get waiter service at the table, which was most excellent. So we felt like we should order some drinks, even though we already had train provisions. On the train we argued about which competitive family holiday to do next (no spoilers) – the discussion got quite heated.
  • Our challenge wasn’t until later in the afternoon – we had to be there at a specific time – so we had some time kill in Berlin. We decided to offload our bags at the hotel and then have some lunch. Next to the hotel is a Mexican restaurant and cocktail bar. Every cocktail is 5.90 euros – bargain. Bertie decided it was an opportunity that couldn’t be missed and ordered up some sort of tequila concoction to accompany his tacos.
  • After lunch we got on the S-Bahn and headed out to Podsdam. Our challenge today had come with two tickets for a 90 minute Palaces Boat Tour. The boat was large and yellow. Unfortunately, just as we were casting off, it began to rain heavily and we had to take cover below. The loudspeaker tour information was way too loud, as were the American tourists, and the first 15 minutes were pretty awful. But fortunately, the storm passed and we hotfooted it up onto the deck for some peace and quiet. Our task was to take a picture of the place where Abel and Powers were exchanged. This was the Glienicker Brücke, nicknamed, the Bridge of Spies.
  • Mission complete, we made our way back into Berlin – on a very overcrowded train with two different babies screaming for the entire journey. I’m ready to have a break from trains now… and to the hotel, where we met up with Team Vault. In the evening we went out for Lebanese food and explored the Memorial for the Murdered Jews in Europe, which is incredible and the size of an entire city block.
Team Vault:
  • Lovely breakfast at the hotel. Upon opening the challenge envelope, they realised that their challenge was an enormous distance away… less than a 1-minute walk. Their entry ticket had already been purchased and was included in the envelope – they were tasked with exploring the Green Vaults.
  • They were waiting at opening time to enter the Green Vaults, but when the lady arrived to open up, she couldn’t actually open the doors because they were so massive. Alfie tried to assist and failed. Paul eventually triumphed.
  • The Green Vaults are a series of ornate baroque rooms with jewels, ivory carvings and exquisite pieces of pottery and sculpture. The specific challenge was to “find the scrambled waxen hoist”. They looked everywhere and were about to ask someone where they could find it, but then they realised that the clue was an anagram – ‘waxon hoist’ scrambled up is ‘saxon white’. And even then, the task was impossible, because the Saxon White is a diamond that was stolen from the Green Vaults in a famous jewellery heist in 2019. Paul and Alfie agreed that this clue was Susie’s finest work.
  • Team Vault then did an emergency shopping trip in Dresden to get a suit for Alfie, who has a job interview on Tuesday, but an inappropriately informal wardrobe. C&A came up trumps. Suit acquired.
  • The team then walked to the station and boarded the train to Berlin. As almost all the trains in Germany seem to be… this train too was delayed. Upon arrival in Berlin they picked up Lime scooters and razzed it through the streets like couple of ruffians. Paul says ‘we rode them like we stole them’. They arrived at the hotel at 2pm.
Points:
Both teams arrived before 6pm – and therefore each won 5 points. We made an agreement not to award points for least money spent today, to give everyone a slight break.
Both teams got 3 points for completing their challenge.
 
Scores at the end of Day 6:
Ellie – 52
Paul – 52
Alfie – 53
Bertie – 61
At dinner on day 6, we all had to try to guess each other’s secret challenges. Players were awarded points for the degree to which they completed their challenge and 5 extra points if nobody guessed their challenge. Challenges were as follows:
 
Bertie: Visit as many churches as you can.
Paul and I both guessed this correctly. Bertie gave himself away because he hardly took any photos on the holiday, except photos of churches. However, the validity of the completion of this challenge is a little bit in dispute, because most of the churches Bertie ‘visited’ he didn’t step foot inside, just went up to the door. He was, however, given the benefit of the doubt.
 
Alfie: Do silly poses in photos.
Nobody guessed this. We had various other guesses for Alfie – including taking lots of different forms of transport, photos of fountains and photos of statues… but nobody got this. There are indeed several really silly pictures of Alfie.
 
Paul: Visit places with names ending in ‘Berg’, ‘Burg’ and another one that he’s totally forgotten (and he lost the piece of paper).
We guessed that he had something to do with place names as he kept taking photos of place names, but not the specifics. But most of his Bergs and Burgs were disallowed as he didn’t visit them at all – just sat on the train taking photos of signs on the platform. He had points deducted.
 
Me: Take as many different types of transport as possible.
Nobody guessed this. They thought that I was tasked with sabotaging the whole holiday (rude) or having to be the last team to arrive each day – but this was just uselessness, I was truly trying to win. They also thought that my task might be something to do with taking selfies with everyone. So by the last day, they were trying to avoid being in my photos. But no, that was just me trying to get holiday snaps. I am actually very proud of my secret challenge win, because I successfully deflected this secret challenge onto Alfie. I managed to plant the seed that my challenge was actually Alfie’s challenge, therefore throwing everyone off my scent. I’m very chuffed. In case you are wondering, I needed to travel on at least 6 different modes of transport to get 5 points. These were: Boat, Train, Tram, Bus, Taxi, Scooter. I actually travelled on more, but didn’t need to argue my case for why the S Bahn is different from the U Bahn or the mainline trains. I also didn’t need to argue about the difference between the Catamaran on Lake Constance and the tiny single hulled passenger ferry that we took to Reichenau. Shanks Pony was a back up, but also not needed.
 
So, final scores after secret challenges:
Bertie: 66 points (winner)
Alfie: 63 points (runner up)
Ellie: 62 points (bronze medal position)
Paul: 60 points (wooden spoon)
 
So, in the end, youth beats age at every step.
Next year, a different competitive holiday!

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